History


Chapter : 5. Clothing : A Social History

A. Caste Conflict and Dress Change

(i) India had its own strict social codes of food and dress, The caste system clearly defined what subordinate and dominant cast Hindus should wear, eat, etc., and these codes had the force of law, Changes in clothing styles that threatened these norms therefore often created violent social reactions,
(ii) The Shanars (also called Nadars) were a community of toddy tappers who migrated to southern Travancore to work under Nair landlords, As they were considered a 'subordinate caste', they were prohibited from using umbrellas and wearing shoes or golden ornaments, Men and women were also expected to follow the local custom of never covering their upper bodies before the upper castes,
(iii) Under the influence of Christian missions, Shanar women converts began in the 1820s to wear tailored blouses and cloths to cover themselves like the upper castes, Soon Nairs attacked these women. Complaints were also filed in court against this dress change.
(iv) At first. the Government of Travancore issued a proclamation in 1829 ordering Shanar women 'to abstain in future from covering the upper parts of the body'. But this did not prevent Shanar Christian women, and even Shanar Hindus from adopting the blouse and upper cloth.
(v) The abolition of slavery in Travancore in 1855 led to even more frustration among the upper castes who felt they were losing control. In October 1859, riots broke out as Shanar women were attacked in the market place and stripped of their upper cloths, Houses were looted and chapels burned, Finally, the government issued another proclamation permitting Shanar women, whether Christian and Hindu, to wear a jacket, or cover their upper bodies 'in any manner whatever, but not like the women of high caste'.

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